the Scoop
In this report we will cover the main highlights as it relates to trend, color, and fabric. One of the major highlights was the apparent lifting of the tension that surrounded design for a few seasons. The results were items with a lot of playfulness built in. Credit must be given to D&G, who have certainly had an effect on the world fashion scene. In a few short years they have transformed everything. What Armani was to the 80’s, D&G are to the 2000’s. They are the leaders of the pack. Zara has hopped onto their coat tails with their chain of Massimo Dutti stores that carry clothes that are supposed to speak of Italian tailoring. By the way when you are in Europe look for the junior Bershka shops. They are also part of the Zara juggernaut.
Note: Some of the major fashion undercurrents are just developing. They have longevity.

undercurrents
Captain & Commander... There is just no doubt about it... Italy has gone back to the British and surplus or military green.. This is not a return to the 60’s where this type of jacket is forecasted in satin brights made famous by the Beatles (Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band). It is a new way of looking at military with its attention to buttons (gold or silver embossed), epaulets, and leather trims (from D&G and Massimo Dutti). It is also a new way of approaching denim.

World Bazaar/Boho Chic... The most outstanding trends highlight the infatuation with all things ethnic whether it is N. African. African, Indian or Folkloric. It’s a Boho Chic look, or Cosmopolitan Chic that tells the tale of an earthy Californian sensibility mixed with knowledge of the world. There is not much else to say here that we didn’t say in our last volume except that full, just below the knee or mid-calf length skirts were more important on this trip with their tiers of different colors and prints. They have a Moulin Rouge/cancan quality to them especially when there is a tie that lifts the skirt on one side.

Foreign Legion... We spotted this military undercurrent in our first trip back in January after having spotted the trend in November. Now the look is somewhat full blown. We prefer the title Foreign Legion as opposed to military as the we think of the items in this group as more of the Saharan Desert; and also because the trend can contain a heaping dose of khaki. This is our utility group that draws many ideas from military, explorer, and it is being shown in both street and dressed-up versions of "soldier".

Pump Up the Volume... Volume is changing the way we design. The allure of new voluminous items has its roots in consumer preferences, as in the poncho. It was successful! So the clothes in this trend become the first look at the new volume. Volume can be an entire item as in an A-line or trapeze dress... or partially “volumized” as in jodhpurs or pouf skirts. Cinching will be key. Get ready to use words such as trapeze, A-line, bubble, babydoll, wide, roomy, full, pouf, flowing, floaty, and billowy.

Jodhpur Styling... There were multiple store displays that use horses and Harleys. It seems that a “horsepower related” story is emerging. We are not surprised that Italy has used this undercurrent very effectively. Italians have always been big on motocross, and speed racing. Look at Gas, Replay, and D&G who all have taken the fast track to success offering looks inspired by the Grand Prix, motocross and NASCAR. While cosmopolitans longing for the freedom that Harleys and horses evoke, join together Foreign Legion and Pump up the Volume. The jodhpur style is the offspring and are classic to flying (“The Aviator”), to rough terrain (Foreign Legion) and horseback riding (equestrian). One pant covers a lot of ground.

It’s a Wrap... No, it doesn’t mean we have finished shooting the scene on a film set. It rather refers to all the wrap ideas that we found in every city visited. There are wrap dresses (very hot in London), wrap sweater styles (from French makers such as Kookai and Bill Tornade), and wrap pants (from Max & Co) in Milan.

other stuff you should know
Embroideries and appliqués are still a hot detail. They can be found in elegant tone on tone variations as well as the popular multi-colored ones. Peacocks, birds and words were popular.

Musical Interlude
Fashion! Turn to the left
Fashion! Turn to the right
Oooh, fashion!
We are the goon squad and we’re coming to town
Beep-beep
Beep-beep
(David Bowie, “Fashion”)
Interlude Over

David Bowie sings of a goon squad. We sing of the prep squad. Preppie looks remain the single best antidote to the cultural clash that has taken over the racks and rounders. It has as its anchor the Polo, Lacoste, Fred Perry, and Penguin tops. These are worn with any of the skirts that fall into the World Market trend. Neutral colors such as khaki and surplus green, very much a part of the Prep Squad trend are perfect for pairing with any of the new, more colorful palettes.

Craftwork continues with its contributions of macramé, crochet, and raffia or raffia-like twine treatments for drawstrings or straps. It is part of the overall attention to texture in textiles.

Part of that utilitarian mood is the use of very visible metal closures and decoration that includes biker studs, grommets and snaps. These are not delicate treatments but are very evident and generally oversized.

Long caftan tops indigenous to both India and North Africa, are still showing but definitely not as much. Note: long fitted caftan dresses with embroidery and lace-up details in bright colors continues. Because of their early success we expect to see many variations on the Riviera. Key here is decoration in the guise of, metallic threads, sequins, and multi-colored embroideries.

London’s Sophia Kokosalaki collection of a few seasons back continues to be influential with its Grecian aesthetic. Fabrics used range from soft cottons, sheers and jerseys and are gathered and folded to create a Grecian look that drapes loosely around the body. Alberta Ferretti had new pieces in the shops as well as Prada and Chloe. Newest as a top.

Surface interest maintains its leverage as the single most important trend for textiles. Here we are talking crinkled as in this seasons silk and gauze offerings or having the surface woven into the textile as in piqué, waffle, seersucker, canvas, jacquard, damask, brocade or textiles with slubs. It was the natural next step from last years successful bouclé story, which can still be found in some shops.

There is plenty of leather and suede being shown. Last trip they were seen in bomber or motocross styling. On this trip vendors have summer-ized these skins by using them as trim on Foreign Legion type items (from D&G and Massimo Dutti).

Denim is still very much a big issue. Styling emphasis on this trip shifted from bottoms to jackets. Makers were waiting for the right style to come along and they have settled on a military (Captain & Commander) category where large gold, brass or silver military dress buttons mix with all sorts of washes giving it a freshness in the jacket category that has been lacking. Also note that makers looked at motocross for inspiration. Premium denim is still a HOT category. Stores that used to carry moderately priced items are now stocked with ones that are much higher in price... often 3 times the price. The pinching technique at knees, pockets and waistband continues to be a hot detail.

color
White... What can we say other than it is a favorite of this season and looks best in the newer gauze, linen and eyelet items.

RED... An almost total absence of red has created a color vacuum that is about to be filled by European makers. Red is important!

Brights... Definitely a strong showing where yellow, lime green, and orange rule.

Pastels... Still very much the other color palette. These colors are feminine and fresh. Note that they are not particularly whitened or clear but rather on the soft side.

Khaki Shades... The surprise hit of the season. These neutrals are palette cleansers that work with bright and pastels for harmonious coupling. Now if we can make relationships that simple.

Summer Darks... These are usually reserved for transition but they are out in full force. This range is anchored sturdily by all shades of brown from russet to chocolate. Other colors taking advantage of the wake that brown creates is indigo (a newcomer... inevitable with all that denim) and cranberry.